In June 2025, the French Senate approved legislation that directly targets ultra-fast fashion platforms such as SHEIN and Temu. The law introduces a combination of environmental taxes, advertising restrictions, and transparency obligations aimed at reducing the environmental and social harm caused by high-speed, high-volume fashion.
A Per-Item Eco-Tax to Discourage Overproduction
The law imposes a €5 tax per item sold by ultra-fast fashion retailers, set to rise to €10 by 2030. This is intended to reflect the true environmental cost of mass-produced garments. The tax revenue will fund local, sustainable fashion initiatives—repositioning public funding away from overproduction and toward alternatives rooted in durability and repairability.
Advertising and Influencer Marketing Banned
Ultra-fast fashion brands will be prohibited from advertising in France. This includes digital ads, social media campaigns, and influencer promotions. Given how heavily these platforms rely on algorithm-driven visibility, the ban directly undermines their primary growth channels. Influencers who continue to promote banned brands may face penalties under the new law.
Mandatory Environmental Transparency
The law also mandates that retailers display environmental impact scores alongside their products. These “eco-scores” will communicate key data such as carbon emissions, water usage, and recyclability. The aim is to equip consumers with clearer, science-based information—helping them make more informed choices beyond just price or style.
Different Standards for “Ultra-Fast” and “Classic” Fast Fashion
The legislation focuses specifically on ultra-fast fashion—defined by very high product turnover and short design-to-sale timelines. Brands like Zara or Kiabi are not as heavily targeted, although they may still be subject to some of the transparency requirements. This distinction has prompted debate around what kinds of fast fashion practices are being held accountable—and which are not.
Impact on Global Supply Chains and Labour Conditions
While the policy is being implemented in France, its ripple effects may be felt far beyond Europe. Most garment production—and the associated labour exploitation—takes place in the Global South. By taxing overproduction and demanding greater transparency, France is beginning to challenge the global business model that depends on low-cost labour and unregulated waste disposal.
What This Means for the Future of Fashion
France’s legislation marks one of the first national efforts to formally regulate fast fashion’s environmental and social impacts. While the law still requires EU approval and may face pressure from industry lobbies, it signals a shift in how governments can—and perhaps must—intervene. It also creates space for slower, community-led fashion systems to gain visibility and support.
Final Thoughts
France’s move offers hope that fast fashion is no longer beyond regulation. But by focusing only on the fastest players, it leaves a wide gap untouched. If fashion is to truly shift, the conversation must expand—beyond speed, beyond trend cycles, and toward the systems that quietly normalise excess. This is a start. The work continues.